Gault & Millau
26. Nov 2020
DEFENDED! We are delighted - especially in times full of bad news - that we were able to defend our 15 points in the Gault + Millau guide. Congratulations also to all our colleagues, who are also breathing life into the restaurant industry with a great deal of creativity and passion.
Restaurant Genuss-Atelier:
15 points
2 toques
Taken over unchanged from Gault & Millau 2021:
Gourmet cuisine for everyone has been offered by siblings Nicole and Marcus Blonkowski for over six years now. The casual fine dining concept here not only includes friendly, uncomplicated service, but also the price for the surprise menu: just 49 euros for four courses plus ten euros for each additional plate. Word has gotten around that you get reliably high product quality and impeccable craftsmanship for this price in the simply elegantly furnished sandstone vaulted cellar - you should definitely make a reservation. If you don't want to be surprised by the menu, you can also order à la carte. However, the five starters were particularly difficult to choose from; the sushi-grade pickled salmon with avocado and sesame crackers turned out to be just as delicious as the duck liver, which was iced and melted in the mouth as a terrine. The whole thing was beautifully arranged with fine mushrooms, dark chocolate and warm brioche. The choice of eight main courses, two of which were vegetarian, was also pleasing, from pink roasted saddle of veal with a spicy crust, wafer-thin Anna potatoes and perfectly roasted king oyster mushrooms to home-cooked fresh venison with beans and a surf 'n' turf version of gilthead, eggplant, artichoke and chorizo. From time to time, the chef adds particularly expressive accents with ingredients such as lemon zest or fir tops - more of the same! Nicole Blonkowski has limited her wine selection to regional wines from Sachen and Saale-Unstrut.