Smaller menu, higher prices: Star chefs in crisis
08. Nov 2022
In view of the high cost of energy and the uncertain outlook for the winter, Saxony's star chefs are facing financial challenges. "The industry as a whole is in dire straits"
In view of high energy costs and the uncertain outlook for the winter, Saxony's Michelin-starred chefs are facing financial challenges. "The industry as a whole is in dire straits," said Rüdiger Schumann from Restaurant Juwel in Schirgiswalde in an interview with Deutsche Presse-Agentur. The Michelin-starred restaurant in the district of Bautzen is part of the family-run Hotel Bei Schumann. In order to cover the current additional costs, the hotel manager has now decided to charge an energy surcharge per guest. Schumann decided to increase prices after observing the competition in southern Germany, Switzerland and Tyrol, among other places. What makes his hotel special is that it is not located in a big city and has a wellness area. "We have seen that people still spend money on their health and well-being and therefore also on food," said Schumann. For this reason, and also because he has provided an alternative gas supply, his hotel has not been too badly affected by the crisis.
Marcus Blonkowski's Genuss-Atelier in Dresden is also frequented by people who can afford star cuisine. Nevertheless, the chef from Dresden has been forced to reduce his menu due to the energy crisis. "This is the only way I can ensure that the quality of our food remains high," he said. Blonkowski does not want to risk downgrading the Genuss-Atelier, which is located in the north-east of Dresden.
This is why, for example, there is no Christmas goose on the menu in the weeks leading up to Christmas. "But our guests don't notice this reduction at all," said Blonkowski, who runs the restaurant together with his sister Nicole. In a society of abundance, less may not be a bad thing at all, he reassured.
In Leipzig's Stadtpfeiffer, star chef Detlef Schlegel takes a more relaxed view of the prevailing crises: "In times like these, our craft is honed". It is important to preserve the magic of hospitality. Despite the restrictions along the production chains, he and his team in the kitchen and service continue to try to ensure the well-being of the guests. If goods cannot be used, other ways must be found to bring star cuisine to the plate.
© dpa-infocom, dpa:221108-99-427161/2