13. Jul 2020
While some of the Dresden pleasure spots have disappeared from the scene in recent times or have not yet emerged from the corona sink, the small, simply elegant Genuss-Atelier near the Elbe remains a constant for connoisseurs.
The uncomplicated combination of restaurant, bar, private area and lounge offers a relaxed atmosphere in the rather dimly lit cellar with changing paintings on the walls - or outside on the terrace if the weather is suitable - and makes it easy for guests to feel at ease. The fact that the dishes do not come across as too sophisticated and focus on clever accents with simple means rather than on exposed luxury or extreme handicrafts certainly contributes to this. The plates are visually appealing, because they are accurate and well-proportioned.
Because the price structure is still kept very inviting, it's fitting that cute cheese rolls with lightly salted butter are not followed by elaborate greetings, but rather that it starts right away. Quite typical for the style of the young team this time was a vegetarian starter around carrot (steamed with light acid and as a cream), which was combined with cheese and a mild nut butter emulsion. Further accents were set by a red-fruity cream as a contrast and crackers and crumble with rather nutty notes. Although the details were not exaggerated down to the last detail, they still intertwined harmoniously.
In general, the vegetables in particular often looked a little pale and natural and simple. This was also the case with the likewise vegetarian main course around a juicy rustic quiche with crispy dough and crispy crust. The anyway rather down-to-earth centre could have been spiced up creatively, but was only complemented by an intensive root vegetable cream and a light herb sauce, while the vegetable potpourri of carrot, cauliflower, celery, mushrooms and beans draped around it seemed to be quite colourless and random.
The dishes with high-quality fish or meat products are more convincing, as for example the tenderly roasted (only occasionally quite salty) scallops with white and green asparagus as well as dark tart elderberry. Above all, the team added clever accents with a light milk cream with a delicate smoky note and the cool freshness of the asparagus sorbet.
The pithy, tender, exactly medium-roasted roast beef with intensive, elegant jus and mushrooms in various textures from raw to soft also cut a good figure. Although the pure blanched cauliflower also looked rather pale here. All components worked best together - also because a concentrated celery cream added an additional earthy spice boost.
Here, too, it is exemplary what the team can achieve in its strong moments. The fact that this could not be called up one hundred percent in the current impression is a post-corona effect and we therefore do not want to overestimate it.
Especially as the dessert and the combination of strawberry (sorbet, fresh fruit and gel) with pistachio and cocoa-intensive crumble came to a sovereign conclusion at the end.
In addition, the always attentive service provides, among other things, good recommendations from a wine list attractively stocked not only with local plants and provides a pleasantly casual atmosphere. A real feel-good place with very good, uncomplicated cuisine at moderate prices.